The gel batteries, as the name suggests, have a gel-like substance in them and the AGM batteries consist of acid suspended in a glass mat separator. There are different types of deep cycle batteries such as:Īll have different manufacture processes.Īmong conventional deep cycle batteries, the flooded battery is the most common, which is similar to the standard lead acid battery in your car. While a car battery’s design to deliver a burst of energy for a short time, a deep cycle battery provides power at a steady rate over a long period. These batteries’ design is to cycle (discharge and recharge) many times. In the context of renewable energy, batteries usually mean deep cycle batteries.ĭeep cycle batteries are an energy storage units in which a chemical reaction occurs that develops voltage and results in electricity. Plan is to run a repair cycle on it – if the charge comes back up to more normalised level.This guide provides some basic information on how deep cycle batteries work, some of the associated terminology and different chemistry types. I have dropped the cell pair out of the bank and it is currently on a smart charge cycle. L16’s are a bit eye watering on price so whilst suspecting the answer, thought worth posing the query! Worth getting acid added to centre cell? Suspecting that one cell is the proverbial Norwegian Blue Parrot and is not ‘just asleep’! :-). Applied charge – voltage came up slightly, two ‘good’ outer cells bubbled significantly, centre cell nothing. Caps off and looked ok, hydrometer reading of each cell and two outer cells show SG of full charge, the centre cell flat. Switched to measuring each battery unit at 6v – 6 good, one noticeably higher and paired cell very low – 5.10 V. Worked across each pair reading voltage ( set in pairs for 12v total voltage output ). Suspiciously followed a heck of a lightning storm so suspected charger failure some how. In last 24 hours noted bank not taking full charge when generator running ( through am invertor/ charger unit ). Run Trojan L16-p 6v batteries in an off-grid system. Thank you for reaching out and good luck! They can see if there is any underlying damage that could pose a safety risk. For example, here’s one such chart: Īgain, if you have concerns about the battery’s condition or performance, it’s always a good idea to have it inspected by a qualified professional. You may want to consult the manufacturer’s instructions or specifications to see what the expected voltage range is under a load. Then check the voltage at regular intervals to see how well it is performing. To get a more accurate idea of the battery’s performance, it may be helpful to put a load on the battery. However, if the readings were taken with no load, the gradual decrease in voltage over time looks normal (though perhaps a little low) for a lead-acid battery that is not being used or recharged during that time. Regarding the voltage readings you provided, if they were taken without a load on the battery, they may not accurately reflect the battery’s actual state of charge or capacity. You may want to have the battery inspected by a qualified professional to ensure that it is safe to use - especially given the potential safety concerns related to the arcing and shorting. It’s possible that the internal components may also have been damaged. You said that you see some burn marks on the battery case. Based on the information you provided, it’s possible that the arcing was caused by damage to the battery, which may have resulted in contact between the positive and negative electrodes.
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